Better Than
New.

Scratches that are in the clear coat only can be fully removed. Scratches that penetrate to the base coat or primer cannot be removed by polishing. They require paint repair (touchup or respray). We will assess each scratch during your consultation and be upfront about what can and cannot be corrected.

Swirl marks are micro-scratches in the clear coat caused by improper washing technique: dirty wash mitts, single-bucket washing, automatic car washes with abrasive brushes, and wiping the car dry with a rough towel. They're extremely common and affect virtually every vehicle that hasn't been washed with professional technique.

Yes. If your washing habits don't change, swirls will return over time. That's why we always recommend ceramic coating after paint correction (to increase scratch resistance) and provide a detailed washing guide. Many clients also apply PPF to high-contact panels for maximum durability.

For PPF, correction is optional unless your paint has significant defects you'd like to address before protecting them. For ceramic coating, correction is strongly recommended. Ceramic locks in whatever condition your paint is in. Any swirls or scratches present at the time of coating will be sealed in permanently.

Paint correction is machine polishing that permanently removes the defects dulling your clear coat: swirl marks, light scratches, water etching, oxidation, and holograms left by careless buffing. Unlike a glaze or wax that hides defects temporarily, correction levels the clear coat itself, restoring the sharp, glossy reflection your paint had when it was new.

It comes down to your paint's condition and the finish you want. A 1-Step removes 40–55% of defects and suits well-kept daily drivers. A 2-Step adds a separate compounding pass, removing 55–85% on paint with heavier swirls and scratches. Advanced / Concours Prep chases 90%+ for show cars and dark colors where every mark shows. We assess your paint under LED lighting and recommend the right level, never more than your paint needs.

Our levels start at $1,200 for a 1-Step, $1,800 for a 2-Step, and $2,500 for Advanced / Concours Prep. The final quote depends on your vehicle's size, its paint condition, and the finish you're after. Every correction includes a full decontamination wash, LED defect mapping, and paint thickness readings before a polisher ever touches the car.

A rushed buff hides defects under polishing oils and often leaves holograms that reappear within a few washes, so you end up paying twice. Professional correction removes a measured amount of clear coat, guided by paint thickness readings, so defects are permanently gone without burning an edge or thinning the paint beyond what it can afford.

A 1-Step typically takes 2 days, a 2-Step 2–3 days, and Advanced correction 3–5+ days depending on the vehicle and the condition of the paint. We limit our schedule so each car gets focused attention, and your vehicle stays secure in our facility. You'll get a specific timeline at your free consultation.

Yes, when it's measured. Clear coat is finite, so we take paint thickness readings on every panel before polishing and use the least aggressive pad and compound combination that achieves the correction. That's also why we're honest when a defect is too deep to chase: removing it would cost more clear coat than the panel can safely give.

Yes, and they're exactly where experience matters most. Tesla's clear coat is unusually soft and marks easily, dark paint shows every defect, and exotics can carry thin or repainted panels. We've corrected all three for years, adjusting pads, compounds, and machine speeds to each paint system rather than running one setup on every car.

Wash technique is everything: two-bucket hand washes, clean microfiber, and no automatic brush washes. Protecting corrected paint with a ceramic coating or PPF makes the results far more durable, and our aftercare guide covers the routine. With good habits a corrected finish holds for years, and an annual inspection lets us catch anything early.

No. A rock chip is missing paint, so there is nothing for a polisher to level. Chips need touch-up paint, and paint protection film is what prevents new ones. Polishing can make the area around a chip look cleaner, but the chip itself stays.